The trench coat is one of fashion's most extraordinary success stories - a garment designed for the specific purpose of keeping soldiers dry in the muddy trenches of World War I that evolved into a timeless symbol of elegance and sophistication. Its journey from battlefield necessity to Hollywood icon to wardrobe essential is a testament to the power of functional design when executed with exceptional quality.
Thomas Burberry's Innovation
The trench coat's story begins with Thomas Burberry, a Hampshire draper who invented gabardine in 1879. This revolutionary fabric was waterproof yet breathable, tightly woven from Egyptian cotton and treated with a chemical process that made it water-resistant without the stiffness of rubberized fabrics. In 1901, the Burberry company designed the 'Tielocken' coat, which featured a single buckle closure and epaulettes - elements that would become standard on the trench coat. The British War Office commissioned Burberry to produce coats for officers in 1914, and the trench coat was born.
Design Features with Purpose
Every design element of the classic trench coat has a functional origin. The epaulettes were designed to display the wearer's rank insignia. The D-ring belt was originally used to hang grenades or other equipment. The storm flap on the right shoulder (the gun flap) protected the shoulder that held a rifle from rain. The cuffs were belted to keep water from running down the arms. The cape-like back section allowed water to run off rather than pooling. These practical details have become the aesthetic signature of the trench coat.
Hollywood's Love Affair
The trench coat's transition from military to civilian life was accelerated by Hollywood. In the 1940s and 1950s, film noir detectives wore trench coats as their unofficial uniform, cementing the garment's association with mystery, sophistication, and urban cool. Humphrey Bogart wore a trench coat in 'Casablanca,' perhaps the most famous trench coat moment in cinema history. Audrey Hepburn wore a Burberry trench in 'Breakfast at Tiffany's,' giving the coat a feminine elegance that expanded its appeal.
The trench coat is the perfect example of form following function so beautifully that the function becomes irrelevant. Nobody buying a Burberry trench today needs a D-ring for grenades, but that ring, along with the epaulettes and storm flaps, has become an essential part of the garment's aesthetic language.
The Classic Burberry Trench
The Burberry trench coat, with its distinctive checked lining, remains the gold standard. The company produces several styles ranging from the original military-influenced design to more modern interpretations. Each coat requires over 100 separate steps to construct and involves skilled craftspeople who have spent years perfecting their techniques. The iconic Burberry check lining was not originally part of the trench coat but was added in the 1920s and has since become one of the most recognized patterns in the world.
Modern Interpretations
Today, virtually every fashion brand offers a version of the trench coat. Designers have experimented with different lengths, fabrics, and proportions while maintaining the essential elements that make a trench coat recognizable. Lightweight versions for transitional weather, padded versions for colder climates, and deconstructed versions for a more casual look all maintain the DNA of the original design. The trench coat has also been adopted by both men and women equally, making it one of the most successful unisex garments in fashion history.
Did You Know?
The original Burberry trench coat design has changed so little in over a century that a 1914 officer would instantly recognize a modern version. The most significant change is the switch from horn to plastic buttons - a concession to modern manufacturing.