Tujia traditional clothing is distinguished by the iconic eight-bao (eight treasures) embroidered cap for children and finely pleated skirts with rich embroidery for women. Tujia brocade weaving (xilan kapu) is renowned as one of Chinas four most famous ethnic brocades.
Key Features of Tujia Attire
- Eight-bao embroidered cap for children with tiger head design
- Handwoven Tujia brocade (xilan kapu) with geometric patterns
- Heavily pleated ankle-length skirts with embroidered waistbands
- Large silver neck rings and earrings with filigree work
- Men's short front-fastening jackets with embroidered edging
Traditional Garments
Women wear a collarless left-opening or front-fastening jacket in blue or black with embroidered trim at the collar, cuffs, and front, paired with a long pleated skirt reaching the ankle. A brocade waistband or embroidered belt cinches the waist. Men wear short front-fastening jackets with cloth buttons and loose trousers.
Headwear and Adornments
The Tujia eight-bao cap (babao mao) for children is distinctive - a padded cap with eight embroidered panels featuring tiger heads, Buddha figures, and auspicious symbols, decorated with silver ornaments and bells. Women wear their hair in a coiled bun with silver hairpins and floral decorations.
Embroidery and Decorative Arts
Tujia brocade (xilan kapu) is a national intangible cultural heritage - a waist-loom woven textile in geometric patterns featuring stylized motifs of flowers, birds, fish, and humans. The technique uses colored silk and cotton threads on dark cotton warp.
The Tujia eight-bao cap, with its tiger head embroidery and protective silver ornaments, transforms an infant into a tiger cub in the eyes of the community - the tiger being the Tujia peoples ancestral totem.
Color Symbolism
Black and dark blue are the base. Tujia brocade uses bright red, yellow, green, blue, white, and black in geometric bands. Embroidery in vibrant multicolors.
Festival Attire
During the Tujia New Year (Gannian Festival) and the Sheba Day, women wear their finest pleated skirts and brocade waistbands, full silver jewelry sets including multiple neck rings.
Modern Influence and Preservation
Tujia xilan kapu brocade is nationally celebrated and produced for both traditional use and commercial markets. The distinctive eight-bao cap is a popular cultural souvenir in western Hunan.
Did You Know?
The Tujia people call themselves Bizika (native dwellers), and their xilan kapu brocade weaving tradition dates back over 2,000 years to the Warring States period.